The Overworked Body II: An Anthology of 2000s Dress
This exhibition will turn towards developments in fashion in the 1990s and 2000s that have brought about present-day impulses and an increased interplay between fashion and visual art. Australian curator and author Matthew Linde will further develop an exhibition that he curated concurrently at two venues in New York (Mathew Gallery and MINI/Goethe, Ludlow, New York) in 2017 for the Kunsthalle Bern. Matthew Linde brought together and staged pieces from the collections of designers who frequently display an affinity to art: Alexander McQueen, Bernadette Corporation, Bernhard Willhelm, Bless, Comme des Garçons, Hussein Chalayan, Issey Miayke, Junya Watanabe, Maison Martin Margiela, and Walter van Beirendonck, amongst many others. Linde will start with developments in the 1990s and early 2000s, when visual art and fashion began to interact with each other in new ways, leading to a new conception of mixing art and fashion that took on a variety of forms. Some fashion labels appeared in the context of both art and fashion, such as the label Bless or artists' collectives such as the Bernadette Corporation, who presented themselves as fashion labels and designed collections. But the magazine culture also changed during this time, and periodicals like Purple no longer distinguished between art and fashion. The show focuses on this experimental dovetailing and also addresses the impact of 9/11 that altered this relationship once again. The affinity between the two fields may have been established, but the experimental character and mutual willingness to take risks had now been lost. For a longer period of time, the interaction between art and fashion was restricted to the field of industry fashion, and both seemed to be bound to a form of realism once again. But now we are observing a new enthusiasm for the vibrant intersections of art and fashion. These will be explored in the exhibition in Bern, which establishes a direct link between these historical developments and the present day.
Curated by Matthew Linde